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 Thursday, May 29, 2008
Botswana Safari and Great White Sharks of South Africa
Posted by Scuba Staff
|
We traveled to Botswana to experience safari at two different camps.
And then to satisfy our marine imperative, we headed south to Gansbaai
in South Africa for a thrilling great white shark adventure. |
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| Giraffe at sunset |
While most of the travel events we offer through our travel company
have to do with the underwater world, there is one very special
terrestrial adventure that we've found introduces the same sort of
reverence for nature that drives us beneath the sea--the African
Wildlife Safari. In this case we've traded our dive boat for a Land
Rover, and swapped our underwater housings for long telephoto lenses.
Yet, there is much the same thrill in finding a cheetah on the prowl as
there is in a close encounter with a friendly pod of dolphins. The main
difference is that in this environment you can change film without
flooding your camera!
To that end, we traveled to Botswana to experience safari at two different camps, both run by the Wilderness Safaris (www.wilderness-safaris.com).
And then to satisfy our marine imperative, we headed south to Gansbaai
in South Africa for a thrilling great white shark adventure, presented
by Marine Dynamics (www.dive.co.za).
Ours was a group of 15, mostly extreme photo enthusiasts, and a few of
our children as well. A brief summary of our daily adventures follows,
and for those who may wish to contemplate a similar expedition, trip
preparation information as well.
July 6Travel from US to Johannesburg, South Africa. This is
about a 14-hour flight from gateway airports of Atlanta or New York.
Johannesburg is of course a cosmopolitan city, with an excellent
airport. We were met by the Wilderness Safaris staff and transported to
the Grace Hotel in Rosebank for our overnight. Some trips can connect
directly to Maun (Botswana) without an overnight, but a recent change
in the South African Airways schedule brought what was actually a
welcome respite in a beautiful hotel. We were reminded however how weak
the US dollar is abroad with something as simple as a taxi ride. Now it
is about 7 Rand to the dollar, and last time we were here (year 2000)
we got 14 Rand to the dollar. All things then appeared less dear with
the advantageous exchange.
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| Kingspool room |
A note on Botswana safari - While countries like
Tanzania and Kenya have opted for a more "mass-market" approach,
Botswana is purposely targeted to small groups at upscale camps. Safari
purveyors like Abercrombie and Kent and Wilderness Safaris run
extraordinary tented safari camps where discriminating clients can
experience wonderful wildlife encounters while luxuriating is spacious
tented suites with complete amenities. Botswana is consequently
typically more expensive than some other places one could go for safari
in Africa, but they have an amazing "bush" product in terms of
wildlife, and the level of service is truly incredible. It might cost a
bit more, but in my experience Botswana is the best place one can go in
Africa for safari.
Recognizing the baggage restrictions in
the small planes going to the Botswana bush are very tight (26 pounds
per person they say), we broke our gear into two clusters, one for
safari and one for sharks, and anything not needed on safari was stored
at the hotel to be transported to the airport by Wilderness Safaris for
our transfer to South Africa for the white shark module. As it was, we
bought two extra seats on the airplanes in Botswana just make sure our
gear would accompany us, and as a result had no problem being a few
pounds over the limit.
July 7
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| Elephant family drinking |
Travel to Johannesburg and then off to Maun and another
regional airport before ultimately arriving at the private airstrip at
Kings Pool just in time for afternoon tea and a game drive. Usually I'm
pretty good about keeping a daily journal on location, but found this
whole vacation was so intense in terms of things to do and critters to
photograph from morning until night, I relied on Alexa, my 10-year old
daughter, to keep a journal of our daily wildlife sightings on safari.
(Alexa's journal entries appear in italics.)
From Alexa's Journal - The
first camp we went to was Kings Pool. On the way there we saw elephant,
giraffe, zebra, impala, and red lechewe. Then we went out in the
afternoon and night and we saw elephant, giraffe, impala, lizards,
hippos, monkeys, kudu, zebra, and baboons.
Not bad when you consider this was just the ride from the airstrip to the camp!
After our check-in and afternoon tea we went out on a proper safari
drive, complete with bountiful photo opportunities and a "sundowner"
(drinks and tea at sunset) overlooking a hippo pool. While this might
have been a "travel" day, thanks to the organizational skills of the
Kings Pool camp, it was also a productive day of game viewing and
photography. We quickly became aware that there are LOTS of elephants
in the region. An image of a herd of elephants, including babies,
drinking from the water's edge in the late afternoon light was one of
my favorite shots of the day, but the sheer abundance of life was
inspirational.
Kings Pool Overview - "The
Kings Pool Camp is on the western boundary of Chobe National Park at
the source of the Savuti Channel. The camp overlooks Kings Pool Lagoon
and hosts a huge elephant population, as well as major predators such
as lion, leopard, cheetah, and hyena. Accommodations are in 10 newly
renovated twin-bed tented rooms overlooking a hippo lagoon. Bathrooms
have shower, hand-basin, and toilet, as well as outdoor shower. The
main lodge provides the pub and dining facility, as well as a swimming
pool. Open 4x4 Land Rovers are the preferred safari vehicle, and water
levels permitting, boat safaris are offered as well." Those are the
words from the online promotion for the camp, but for once the
hyperbole is understated. These tented camps are lush and
architecturally inspiring. Designed to assure a sense of wilderness
immersion combined with privilege, the camp and its operators were most
professional in every regard.
July 8 - Kings Pool
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| Safari vehicle |
We saw hippo, impala, baboons, buffalo, lions, elephant, giraffe,
and lots of birds and bones. In the afternoon we saw a leopard, zebra,
elephant, baboons, Cape buffalo, wart hogs, and birds.
The safari vehicles are made by Land Rover specifically for this
application. They have three tiers of bench seat, with hand rails
perfect for mounting long lenses on beanbags to steady them. The
drivers not only know where to find the game, but how best to approach
for optimal light and camera angles. Clearly they have been around very
good photographers before, and our guides quickly became our allies in
our photographic quest. In fact they were so good; we should probably
share our photo credits with them! The giraffe and Cape buffalo
sightings were both good this morning, and we had some very close
opportunities with wart hogs as well. Very strange animals they are,
especially when observed from a vantage this near.
July 9 - Kings Pool
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| Leopard |
We saw lions, monkeys, giraffe, jackals, impala, wart hog, hippo,
zebra, ostrich, Cape buffalo, birds and red lechewe. At the hide we saw
elephants, baby elephants, baboons, and zebra.
On any
safari, the cats are the big draws, and this day was exceptional for us
in this regard. In the morning we found a group of lionesses in
beautiful warm light, slowly meandering through the high grasses, their
tawny coats in perfect camouflage. But the hot shot this day was a
leopard we tracked offroad through the bush for about an hour, getting
only glimpses and grab shots. And then at the very end of the day, in
the last golden rays of the setting sun, she sat on a high wooded ridge
and posed in absolute regal indifference to our presence. This was the
first year I was taking both film and digital pictures of the Africa
experience, and to see those leopard shots pop up on the camera's LCD
screen was both exciting and reassuring. For sure significant images
were happening for me and our guests.
 |
| Male lion |
One of the interesting aspects of the Kings Pool camp is a hide built
into an earth bunker at the edge of a spring. At mid-day the zebra,
elephants, wart hogs, and impala come to the spring to drink, and the
hide provides incredibly close access and unusual camera angles. In
fact, more than once we were sprayed by a trunkful of water from a
playful elephant, but we were smart enough to shield our cameras. How
embarrassing would that be for an underwater photographer to have his
expensive digital SLR flooded by elephant snot!
For our morning game drive, the highlight seemed to be a trio of male
lions in somnambulant stupor. Just as we figured we'd have to be
satisfied with still-life headshots, hopefully with eyes open, Africa
reminded us she holds surprises. One cat slipped off into the bush, and
when we followed he boldly charged our safari vehicle, starling us all
and reminding us once again this is their turf and they rule quite well
thank you.
July 10 - Mombo
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| Mombo room |
We saw red lechewe, impala, zebra, giraffe, rhino, kudu, wart hogs, leopard and leopard baby.
The antelopes of the plains, like kudu, red lechewe, and impala are
everywhere--kind of like blue-striped grunts in Key Largo or clownfish
in Papua New Guinea. But they are so cute you can't help but photograph
them. My daughter made the observation that the impalas had an "M"
shaped mark on their butts, resembling McDonald's golden arches. And
given their popularity as prey, maybe fast-food-of-the-bush is a fair
analogy.
Like Kings Pool, Mombo is extraordinarily
organized and service oriented, so our check-in was quick and
efficient, allowing time for tea and afternoon game drive. They knew
where to find the den of a leopard that recently had a cub, and luckily
both Mom and baby were in residence that afternoon. A series of the
mother and cub pictures, followed by a wonderful viewing opportunity of
the rhinos recently reintroduced to this preserve, made for a very
productive introduction to Mombo.
Mombo Overview
- The Mombo camp has 9 tented rooms, each raised off the ground and
offering wonderful views of the floodplain. Don't be fooled by the
"tent" appellation, as these are luxury accommodations with en suite
bathroom with indoor shower (also outdoor shower). The main living area
is under thatch and canvas and there is a swimming pool. Raised
walkways link the bedrooms and living area. There is a boma as well
(outdoor dining area under the stars). The suites are spacious, and
cleverly designed to incorporate enough structural elements to protect
the guests from elements and wildlife, but enough screening and canvas
to make sure we felt a part of the environment. On cool nights a
hot-water bottle beneath the covers provided comfort, and in fact it
was so cozy those 6:00 AM wake-up calls came far too early. But these
camps are all about the game drives and good light, and to sleep in
would never do.
July 11 - Mombo
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| Yawning lioness |
We saw cheetah, elephant, giraffe, zebra, baboons, and monkeys. We
saw 14 lions all together in one spot, and one male lion get smacked by
an angry female lion. Back at camp I found a monkey I named "Tiny"
because he is huge. He is the dominant male. There was a girl monkey I
called "Fruity" because she threw fruit at me and hit me!
Indeed the monkeys around the camp we cute, but that was before they
figured out how to get in one of the guest rooms and steal most of the
prescription drugs. It seems they are most fond of Malarone
anti-malarial medicine, and left their teeth marks on the few bottles
they couldn't quite figure their way past the child-proof caps. All of
a sudden we viewed their "cute-quotient" in a different light.
No doubt it is a constant battle for the Mombo staff to stay one step
ahead of these critters in such a wilderness setting. Seeing hyena,
buffalo, and other assorted game just steps away beyond our elevated
walkway was exciting, but one more reminder we are vulnerable
interlopers in their realm. We left it to the camp staff to make sure
we were safely escorted back to our tents at night.
Cats
were a major hit for this morning's game drive. First there were the
two cheetahs, and then a massive congregate of lions. I had my eye to
the viewfinder all the time and didn't stop to count, but when my wife
Barbara did the math we had 14 lions all together at one point. In
fact, the lions and cheetahs were both so productive in the morning
they were our target species for the afternoon game drive. But wildlife
is fickle, and while there were fascinating behavioral options in the
morning, in the afternoon we had a great chance to watch them, well,
sleep. Maybe that yawn shot with all those big teeth will somehow look
fiercely menacing on film. Or maybe it will just look like a very
sleepy cat. Either way, it was fun to see.
July 12 - Mombo
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| Leopard and cub |
We saw baboons, giraffe, impala, red lechewe, zebra, monkey, lion,
cheetah, mongoose, and birds. In the afternoon we saw impala, monkeys,
lots of lions, and the best was a leopard Mommy with her little baby
cub.
For our last afternoon game drive we decided to
try the leopard and her cub one more time. The first time we were there
the light was harsh and the interaction between them fleeting.
Recognizing this as a very rare opportunity, we went back hoping for
better shots.
At first the leopards were in the shade.
Behind a fallen tree and the light was marginal, but then, as if on
cue, as the sun set the leopards climbed to the sunny side of the tree
and the little cub curled up next to Mommy's neck. It was a beautiful
photo of course, but even more so a beautiful experience for all of us
that night. You never know what might go through a kid's mind, or what
will endure through the haze of time. But Barbara and I hope that last
glimpse of the baby leopard in her Mom's protective embrace in the vast
African wilderness will be one such memory for our daughter to carry
home from this trip.
All of which made it more difficult to
bid our new friends at Mombo goodbye, but we were now poised for a new
adventure and white sharks beckoned.
A Note on Wilderness Safaris
- I have been on numerous safaris in several African nations, but have
to say the organization and dedication to guest satisfaction exhibited
by the Wilderness Safaris group was the best I've yet encountered. From
the airport transfers to the accommodations in the bush to the game
drives, this company does hospitality extremely well. When traveling to
remote locales to experience the unfamiliar, it was a comfort to have
booked with true safari professionals.
July 13 - TravelThis was a very long
day. It may be a moderate distance as the crow flies between Mombo
safari camp and Gansbaai, South Africa, assuming a fast crow with good
endurance. But for us to get there we had to connect through several
regional airports (including a scenic fly-over of Zambia's Victoria
Falls) to Capetown, and then an 1-hour drive from Capetown airport to
Grootbos. All told, it took about 14 hours in transit.
The South Africa Safari/Shark Season
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| Grootbos |
As it turns out, the best time for both safari and white shark
encounters happens to be during the North American summer, which is
actually winter in South Africa. One consideration is that in winter
there are far fewer mosquitoes, significant anywhere in the malaria
belt. However, bug spray and malaria preventatives can combat the
insect issue. The main reason winter is best is because it is normally
a time of relative drought. Water becomes scarce and all game migrates
towards the remaining streams and watering holes. This concentrates
both prey and predators into a much smaller area. There is less
vegetation as well, making the game far easier to spot and photograph.
As far white sharks are concerned, the water may actually be calmer
during their summer, but the plankton bloom makes the water clarity
extremely challenging. The best water for underwater photography
happens between the end of May and the end of August, with June and
July absolutely primetime.
The white sharking in South
Africa happens near Gansbaai, a small fishing village on the western
side of Cape Agulhas, near the southernmost tip of the continent. Once
in Capetown, our white shark operator JP Botha of Marine Dynamics met
us at the airport to continue our journey Grootbos (www.grootbos.com),
the upscale resort and nature reserve that would be our home over the
next 6 days.
Grootbos - Many of the white
shark expeditioneers who make the pilgrimage to Gansbaai each season
choose to stay in a variety of bed and breakfast accommodations. Some
are austere, and some are quite nice. Given that we had tour
participants who would not be white sharking every day, we chose to
stay at a Grootbos Nature Reserve; a lovely lodge situated in a
beautifully wooded milkwood forest overlooking the sea. This 5-star
lodge allows for maximum comfort, gracious hospitality, and ample
leisure activities for days we can't go out on the boat for white
sharks.
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| Alexa on horse |
Grootbos Factoids:
- Grootbos means "large forest" in Afrikaans, and is named
after the white milkwoods, which form an extensive forest on the
reserve.
- There are 9 private luxury cottages,
each with private lounge, bedroom(s), and en suite bathroom. All
cottages have private wooden decks with panoramic sea and mountain
views, fireplace and wall heaters, hair dryer, filter coffee machine
and selection of quality teas, well stocked mini-bar, and fresh fruit
basket daily.
- There is a restaurant with central fireplace and full bar with excellent selection of South African wines.
- There is a horse stable on location, and wonderful trail rides throughout the property.
- There is a swimming pool within natural rock features and indigenous plants.
- The lounge overlooks Walker Bay and has Leica spotter scopes for watching birds and whales from the Lodge.
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The guiding team at Grootbos includes a botanist, ornithologist,
environmental scientist, archaeologist, and a marine biologist.
- 500 species of plant and 100 species of bird occupy Grootbos reserve.
-
Activities include 4x4 nature drives through the spectacular scenery,
nature walks through the milkwood forest, 1-2 hour horseback rides (18
horses + 2 riding instructors), whale watching trips to Walker Bay, 4x4
beach excursions, and trips to Dangerpoint lighthouse.
As you may surmise, by staying at Grootbos we could be well
entertained on days when the seas are too rough to go shark diving,
although clearly, encounters with great white sharks was our prime
objective for this trip module.
July 14 - Gansbaai
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| Great white shark with bait |
We arrive at full moon and the extreme low tides mean we can't
get out of the harbor until 11:00 AM, but since we all need the morning
to switch our minds and camera systems from safari mode to white
sharks, no worries. Of course, from previous experience I figured I
would have plenty of time on location to assemble cameras in housings
as well while waiting for the white sharks to show. But, as we took
over an existing chumline from a boat who was leaving just as we
arrived, within 10 minutes of the hook being dropped we heard the
soon-to-be-familiar cry of "Shark at the bait!" Topside cameras
furiously clicked as the 4-meter white shark aggressively ripped into a
tuna head and we were all deluded into thinking how easy it must be to
get white sharks into camera range. In fact, the action was so hot this
day, as I was photographing one rather aggressive white shark at the
bait, another came perilously close to taking that oh-so-dangerous
exploratory nip of my foot as I perched on the outboard for water-level
shots. Here already was the extremely rare happenstance of having two
sharks at the boat, both extraordinary performers.
Of course, it had not been so previously in my experience at Dyer
Island, and for sure I'd never known it to be easy in Australia either.
But terrific white shark action so soon in the trip had to be a potent
of good things. Right? Well, sort of.
This day we probably
had about 6 different sharks around the bait at different times, and
the seas were quite calm as well. I know we all got some pretty good
shots, but had the whole experience been repeated a couple of days
later when we were better into the rhythm of white shark shooting we
would have undoubtedly returned with better images.
As it
was, no one was really ready to get into the shark cage and we were
content with shots of sharks biting the bait. Nice, but after reviewing
the digital images in the lodge that night I think we all decided that
the iconic shot we were seeking was the great white with jaws agape,
teeth gleaming, water streaming through the open maw, and no bait in
the picture. That would be the hot shot. But at least we got images,
and knew what we had to do in order to do better the next day.
July 15 - Gansbaai
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| Great white shark under water |
Last time I visited Gansbaai I was so intrigued with the topside photo
potential, and also so disappointed with the water clarity, I never
even tried any underwater shots. This time in-water shots were a high
priority and to that end I armed myself with three specific tools: a
Seacam housed Nikon D1X digital system with a 12-24mm zoom, an F100
film camera set up in a Seacam housing with a 14mm wide angle and
swivel-45 degree viewfinder (in case I ever had an opportunity to try
over/under shots with the white sharks), and a Nikonos RS with a 13mm
fisheye lens and remote shutter release so I could use it as a pole
cam.
Gratefully this day I had a few magic passes while in the cage with a
cooperative shark that allowed both film and digital wide-angle
coverage. We were working with famed shark wrangler Andre Hartman,
subject of many documentaries and Shark Week renown. Through long years
of experience, and instinctual empathy with the sharks Andre knew just
how to lure the shark into camera range, yet pull the bait away at the
exactly perfect moment.
When all the elements were
perfectly aligned I could get a shark close (anything farther than 3
feet away simply would not work in this turbid water), mouth open, and
no bait in the frame. Seeing a few of those pop up on the cameras LCD
was a great comfort, for now I knew I had something significant
recorded. And here it was only a day-and-a-half into the trip. Very
cool indeed!
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| Andre with jawing shark |
My next series of photos were with the housed film camera, sitting on
the side of the cage as the shark ripped into a tuna head not more than
three feet away. I have to admit the adrenaline was pumping pretty well
as the motor drive raced and the frenzied shark shredded the bait. As
the action peaked and the shark slid back in the water I realized the
last few shots looked kind of blurry. Then I looked at my dome and saw
it smeared in tuna blood and shreds of meat from our rather messy
predator. And then I wiped my face and found I too was splashed with
blood and detritus. Being close enough to a feeding great white shark
to need to rinse fish blood and flesh off my face was the reason I'd
come to South Africa, and Andre and the crew of Predator II had delivered!
While we had more action on and off all afternoon, but nothing ever
compared to that one magic hour that morning. Actually we probably had
10 different sharks visit the boat over the course of the day, but we
are looking for "players", the sharks who want to hit the bait with
some level of attitude, or at the other extreme, come close to the back
of the boat so Andre can lift the snout in a behavior they call
"jawing". This is the specialty photo-op of the South Africa white
shark experience, and it takes a coincidence of cooperative shark, good
shark wrangling, and perfect surface conditions to make it happen. As
it turned out, the confluence of those variables would pretty well
elude as the week went on.
July 16 - Gansbaai
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| Andre with bait |
After two great days of white sharking our luck turned pretty
bad. Here was a slick calm day, good visibility, and we had sharks
willing to come to our boat, but none who wanted to play with us. We
had cooperative sharks on boats to the left of us; we had sharks on
boats to the right of us. But for us, nothing of consequence. The
sharks actually seemed offended by the bait we offered this day, and I
guess with so many boats in proximity they could afford to be choosy.
It appeared none of the tuna on board with us this day was fresh enough
to have splattered blood and guts over my dome, and I truly think that
is what cost us some extraordinary photo potential.
They use tuna livers in a chum-bag to set the scent, and a decoy in the
shape of a sea lion is used to bring the shark close to the bait, but
the final element in the "lure triumvirate" is the perfect bait to
close the deal. Typically it is shark meat for jawing shots or tuna for
ripping shots. But it ought to be fresh and tasty. No one ever said
white sharks were dumb, and in fact they are very discriminating
predators. I just wish we would have had something more palatable for
them this gorgeous day.
Of course that's just my theory,
and I could be wrong. It could be the size of the boat, or the color,
or wearing the wrong lucky hat. But when the boat 20 yards away has a
shark for 2 hours straight and we have none, something needs blaming,
and for us this day, we reckon it's the bait.
July 17 - Gansbaai
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| Great white shark |
As if in confirmation of our theory, today we set out to sea
with fresh and bloody tuna and shark for bait. And in fact we had great
shark action. We think we had 6 different sharks this day, although we
probably had more aggressive sharks and more productive players the
first two days. But still, all day long there were "Sharks at the
bait", "Sharks at the Decoy", and definitely never a dull moment.
The crew advised us the wind would be coming up late in the day, and in
fact it did to the extent that white sharking was uncomfortable and
marginally productive from mid-afternoon onward. The sharks seem to
prefer sunny days and only a slight wind chop. Sometimes slick calm can
put them off because they can see the topside activity too well.
Overcast doesn't usually work, and big waves probably aren't good
because the waves slapping against the boat make too much noise lure a
shark close.
There are dozens of variables, including the
mood of any particular shark, all of which conspire against getting the
ultimate white shark shot. Regrettably, the variables now began to turn
against us, and would stay so for the duration of this trip.
July 18
 |
| Penguins |
True to forecast, the wind does howl and it is probably too
rough to have a good day at sea. So, we take advantage of the lull to
go photograph the colony of jackass penguins about an hour away at
Stony Point. Then off to the nearby seaside village of Hermanus for
lunch at an oceanside restaurant, rather incongruously dining on
seafood while overlooking a gorgeous seascape highlighted by a passing
Southern right whale. Later that day our kids go horseback riding at
Grootbos, some of the adults go shopping in Hermanus, and we white
sharkers recharge our batteries, literally and figuratively.
July 19This is our last scheduled day
of white shark charter, and even though we know the wind is still
blowing too hard to have a good day at sea, we are committed. Or maybe
we should be committed. Either way, even though we had four to six
sharks visit us this day, we couldn't get them to the bait in the rough
seas. Andre and the crew of Predator II
valiantly tried to deliver, but at a certain point experience and
perseverance must give way to the reality of futility. The reality was
that we weren't going to get shark shots this day, and when a final
menacing squall blew in, we blew out.
In retrospect our
best shark opportunities came on our first two days and hopefully we
were all prepared enough and skilled enough to have captured the magic.
Two and a half gorgeous white shark days out of five scheduled shoot
days is really a pretty good return for this part of the world at any
time. I know I am eager to get home and see the film images as well,
but take comfort in knowing that the digital images are good. I know
for a fact I did not get skunked, and with white sharks sometimes
that's good enough.
A white shark shooter will continue to
invest more time and more energy and more money; all to have more days
at sea with white sharks. In fact, in a few months I'll be off to
Guadalupe Island off Mexico to try it again with the white sharks
there. No doubt South Australia looms on the white shark horizon again
one day. But for sure I'll be back to South Africa for more time with
these boys. For white sharks are perhaps the most challenging marine
wildlife subject an underwater photographer can face, and the most
rewarding to capture in a new or different or better light.
Epilog
 |
| Two Oceans Aquarium |
On the way home our airline schedule forced us to overnight in
Capetown, so we chose to stay at the beautifully historic Cape Grace
Hotel along the seaport. Here we could easily visit the Two Oceans
Aquarium and have easy access to fine dining and shopping. All in all,
a nice way to wrap a wonderful land-and-sea safari in Southern Africa.
Safari Planner
Clothing/Dress - Long pants, sweatshirts, and
windbreakers are most suitable for safari in the Southern African
winter. Remember stealth mode is preferred and it is best not to wear
bright or gaudy attire while on game drives. Tan or khaki green are
good colors for safari wear. It will be a good idea to omit heavy
perfumes as well, and use unscented deodorant. Footwear of choice will
include good tennis shoes or hiking boots and comfortable socks. Bring
a waterproof garment for unexpected showers. Bring a swimsuit as well,
since our camps will have swimming pools. You will not wish to swim
anywhere other than chlorinated pools, both for health reasons
(parasites) and obvious big game reasons (crocs and hippos).
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| Kingspool swimming pool |
Other advisable accessories include sunscreen, hat, sunglasses,
binoculars, small flashlight with spare batteries, insect repellant,
and lots of film and spare batteries and media for the digital cameras.
Photography on Safari
- This is the perfect place for long telephoto lenses. A 300mm is
probably entry level for quality safari photography, and ideally a
teleconverter or a longer lens in the 400mm to 600mm range will be
utilized. Zoom lenses with good telephoto capacity are good choices as
well. The 80-400 Nikkor or Canon 100-400mm equivalent should be
excellent. For film, the longer lenses will typically require more
speed. While I prefer Fuji 50 ISO Velvia for most of my underwater and
topside photography, I'll probably limit the use of Velvia to bright
daylight photography, or maybe push it one stop to 100 ISO. The new
Velvia 100 ISO is an excellent choice as well. The extra stop (or
shutter speed) at 100 ISO is an important consideration when
handholding a long lens. I'll bring some 400 ISO film as well.
I intend to shoot transparency film and digital, but others may wish to
consider print films as well. The 200 ISO print films are excellent
general-purpose films, and they can be burned to the new Kodak Picture
CD for use with Internet applications. In terms of quantity of film, I
would think 12-15 rolls of film per shoot day, or digital equivalent,
is a fair target. Figure 6.5 shoot days, so for safari I'll probably
bring about 100 rolls of film.
 |
| Barbara with binoculars |
Digital enthusiasts will need several batteries because we'll be out on
safari and unable to recharge batteries until we get back to camp.
Spare media cards or some means of digital download (other than your
laptop) is definitely prudent!
Health
- To personally research health information regarding travel to
Botswana or South Africa, contact your personal physician or the Center
for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC) at 404-332-4565. Have your fax
number ready, and then follow the prompts you receive on the recorded
message to obtain faxed information. We have found it convenient to
obtain current information regarding health concerns and recommended
immunizations for Botswana by phoning the CDC at 888-232-3228 or via
their Web site at www.cdc.gov.
To find out about current U.S. Department of State travel warnings and public announcements, see http://travel.state.gov
This from their web site as of June 2003:
Food and waterborne diseases are the number one cause of illness in
travelers. Travelers' diarrhea can be caused by viruses, bacteria, or
parasites, which are found throughout Southern Africa and can
contaminate food or water. Infections may cause diarrhea and vomiting
(E. coli, Salmonella, cholera, and parasites), fever (typhoid fever and
toxoplasmosis), or liver damage (hepatitis). Make sure your food and
drinking water are safe.
Malaria is a serious, but
preventable infection that can be fatal. Your risk of malaria may be
high in these countries, including cities. Prevent this deadly disease
by seeing your health care provider for a prescription antimalarial
drug and by protecting yourself against mosquito bites. All travelers
to malaria-risk areas in Southern Africa, including infants, children,
and former residents of Southern Africa, are at risk for malaria. All
travelers to a malaria-risk area should take one of the following drugs
(listed alphabetically): atovaquone/proguanil, doxycycline, mefloquine,
or primaquine (in special circumstances). For additional information on
malaria risk and prevention. Protecting yourself against insect bites
will help to prevent these diseases.
Schistosomiasis, a
parasitic infection, is found in fresh water in this region. Do not
swim in fresh water (except in well-chlorinated swimming pools) in
Southern African countries.
Because motor vehicle crashes are
a leading cause of injury among travelers, walk and drive defensively.
Avoid nighttime travel if possible and always use seat belts.
There is no risk for yellow fever in Southern Africa. A certificate of
yellow fever vaccination may be required for entry into certain of
these countries if you are coming from countries in South America or
sub-Saharan Africa. For detailed information, see Comprehensive Yellow
Fever Vaccination Requirements.
CDC recommends the following vaccines (as appropriate for age):
See your doctor at least 4-6 weeks before your trip to allow time for shots to take effect.
- Hepatitis A or immune globulin (IG).
-
Hepatitis B if you might be exposed to blood (for example, health-care
workers), have sexual contact with the local population, stay longer
than 6 months, or be exposed through medical treatment.
- Rabies, if you might be exposed to wild or domestic animals through your work or recreation.
- Typhoid, particularly if you are visiting developing countries in this region.
-
As needed, booster doses for tetanus-diphtheria, measles, and a
one-time dose of polio vaccine for adults. Hepatitis B vaccine is now
recommended for all infants and for children ages 11-12 years who did
not complete the series as infants.
To stay healthy, do...
- Wash hands often with soap and water.
-
Drink only bottled or boiled water, or carbonated (bubbly) drinks in
cans or bottles. Avoid tap water, fountain drinks, and ice cubes. If
this is not possible, make water safer by BOTH filtering through an
"absolute 1-micron or less" filter AND adding iodine tablets to the
filtered water. "Absolute 1-micron filters" are found in
camping/outdoor supply stores.
- Eat only
thoroughly cooked food or fruits and vegetables you have peeled
yourself. Remember: boil it, cook it, peel it, or forget it.
-
If you visit an area where there is risk for malaria, take your malaria
prevention medication before, during, and after travel, as directed.
(See your doctor for a prescription.)
- Protect yourself from mosquito bites.
-
Pay special attention to mosquito protection between dusk and dawn.
This is when the type of mosquito whose bite transmits malaria is
active.
- Wear long-sleeved shirts, long pants, and hats.
- Use insect repellents that contain DEET (diethylmethyltoluamide).
- Read and follow the directions and precautions on the product label.
- Apply insect repellent to exposed skin.
- Do not put repellent on wounds or broken skin.
-
Do not breathe in, swallow, or get into the eyes (DEET is toxic if
swallowed). If using a spray product, apply DEET to your face by
spraying your hands and rubbing the product carefully over the face,
avoiding eyes and mouth.
- Unless you are
staying in air-conditioned or well-screened housing, purchase a bed net
impregnated with the insecticide permethrin or deltamethrin. Or, spray
the bed net with one of these insecticides if you are unable to find a
pretreated bed net.
- DEET may be used on
adults, children, and infants older than 2 months of age. Protect
infants by using a carrier draped with mosquito netting with an elastic
edge for a tight fit.
- Children under 10 years
old should not apply insect repellent themselves. Do not apply to young
children's hands or around eyes and mouth.
- To prevent fungal and parasitic infections, keep feet clean and dry, and do not go barefoot.
To avoid getting sick...
- Don't eat food purchased from street vendors.
- Don't drink beverages with ice.
- Don't eat dairy products unless you know they have been pasteurized.
- Don't share needles with anyone.
-
Don't handle animals (especially monkeys, dogs, and cats), to avoid
bites and serious diseases (including rabies and plague). (For more
information, please see the Animal-Associated Hazards on the Making
Travel Safe page.)
- Don't swim in fresh water.
Salt water is usually safer. (For more information, please see the
Swimming Precautions on the Making Travel Safe page.)
What you need to bring with you:
- Long-sleeved shirt, long pants, and a hat to wear
whenever possible while outside to prevent illnesses carried by insects
(e.g., malaria, dengue, filariasis, leishmaniasis, and onchocerciasis).
- Insect repellent containing DEET.
-
Bed nets impregnated with permethrin. (Can be purchased in camping or
military supply stores. Overseas, permethrin or another insecticide,
deltamethrin, may be purchased to treat bed nets and clothes.)
-
Flying-insect spray or mosquito coils to help clear rooms of
mosquitoes. The product should contain a pyrethroid insecticide; these
insecticides quickly kill flying insects, including mosquitoes.
- Over-the-counter antidiarrheal medicine to take if you have diarrhea.
-
Iodine tablets and water filters to purify water if bottled water is
not available. See Do's above for more detailed information about water
filters.
- Sun block, sunglasses, hat.
- Prescription medications: make sure you have enough to last during your trip, as well as a copy of the prescription(s).
After you return home If you have
visited a malaria-risk area, continue taking your antimalarial drug for
4 weeks (mefloquine or doxycycline) or seven days
(atovaquone/proguanil) after leaving the risk area.
Malaria is always a serious disease and may be a deadly illness. If you
become ill with a fever or flu-like illness either while traveling in a
malaria-risk area or after you return home (for up to 1 year), you
should seek immediate medical attention and should tell your health
care provider your travel history.
Another interesting link for obtaining current travel advisories is: www.travel.state.gov/travel_warnings.html. From this site regarding Botswana:
COUNTRY DESCRIPTION: Botswana is a southern African country with a
stable democratic government and a growing economy. Facilities for
tourism are widely available.
ENTRY/EXIT REQUIREMENTS: A
passport is required. U.S. citizens are permitted stays up to 90 days
without a visa. For additional information on entry requirements,
travelers may contact the Embassy of the Republic of Botswana, 1531 -
1533 New Hampshire Ave, N.W., Washington, D.C. 20036, telephone (202)
244-4990/1, fax (202) 244-4164 or the Permanent Mission of the Republic
of Botswana to the United Nations, 103 E. 37th St., New York, NY,
telephone (212) 889-2277, fax (212) 725-5061. There are also honorary
consuls in Los Angeles, San Francisco and Houston. Overseas inquiries
should be made to the nearest Botswana Embassy or Consulate.
In an effort to prevent international child abduction, many governments
have initiated procedures at entry/exit points. These often include
requiring documentary evidence of relationship and permission for the
child's travel from the parent(s) or legal guardian not present. Having
such documentation on hand, even if not required, may facilitate
entry/departure.
SAFETY AND SECURITY: Civil unrest and disorder are rare.
CRIME: Violent crime remains relatively infrequent in Botswana, but
appears to be on the rise in urban centers. Prudent security measures,
such as house and car alarms and immobilizers should be used to deter
residential burglaries and car theft. In addition, the rise of armed
carjackings in Botswana over the past two years warrants increased
vigilance while driving in urban areas, particularly after dark. Petty
street crime and crimes of opportunity, primarily the theft of money
and personal property, remain the most common forms of crime in
Botswana. Visitors to Gaborone, as to any major city, should avoid
walking at night in unfamiliar areas.
The loss or theft
abroad of a U.S. passport should be reported immediately to local
police and to the nearest U.S. Embassy or Consulate.
MEDICAL
FACILITIES: Medical facilities in Gaborone and Francistown are
adequate, but available facilities in other areas are limited. For
advanced care, Americans often choose to travel to South Africa. Most
prescription drugs are available.
MEDICAL INSURANCE: The
Department of State strongly urges Americans to consult with their
medical insurance company prior to traveling abroad to confirm whether
their policy applies overseas and whether it will cover emergency
expenses such as a medical evacuation. U.S. medical insurance plans
seldom cover health costs incurred outside the United States unless
supplemental coverage is purchased. Further, U.S. Medicare and Medicaid
programs do not provide payment for medical services outside the United
States. However, many travel agents and private companies offer
insurance plans that will cover health care expenses incurred overseas
including emergency services such as medical evacuations.
When making a decision regarding health insurance, Americans should
consider that many foreign doctors and hospitals require payment in
cash prior to providing service and that a medical evacuation to the
United States may cost well in excess of 50,000 U.S. dollars. Uninsured
travelers who require medical care overseas often face extreme
difficulties, whereas travelers who have purchased overseas medical
insurance have found it to be lifesaving when a medical emergency has
occurred. When consulting with your insurer prior to your trip, please
ascertain whether payment will be made to the overseas healthcare
provider or if you will be reimbursed later for expenses that you
incur.
White Shark Planner
 |
| Great white shark fin |
Here is some general information pertaining to all South Africa travel:
Local time
- The local time in South Africa is 8 hours ahead of Eastern Standard
Time/Daylight Savings Time. Midnight on the East Coast = 8:00 AM in
Johannesburg/Capetown.
Currency - The South African Rand is the local currency, and it is presently exchanged at a rate of 7.00 Rand to US $1.00.
Baggage Allowance for Domestic/International
- South African Airways is not as stringent as some airlines we have
traveled to some parts of the world, but just so you are forewarned,
here are the published restrictions:
-
First/business class - Two checked bags, total dimensions of each bag
not to exceed 62 inches, and of which the mass of any one piece does
not exceed 70 pounds.
- Economy/coach -
Two checked bags, total dimensions of each bag not to exceed 62 inches,
and of which the mass of any one piece does not exceed 70 pounds.
- Children - Full free baggage allowance as per adults.
- Size assessment - Add maximum height, length, and width together
-
Cabin baggage - In addition to free checked baggage allowance, you are
entitled to one piece of hand baggage suitable for placing in the
overhead rack or under seat. Maximum dimensions should not exceed 45
inches in size assessment. This was more stringently enforced this year
than previously.
About transporting film
- By now everyone should know not to pack film in checked baggage. It
WILL get ruined by bomb detection devices. These scanners perform 2
types of scans, a general sweep which is harmless to film, or a
focused, high-energy scan targeted at any suspicious items identified
in the general sweep. This second scan will ruin unprocessed film in a
single pass! This is a serious issue. DO NOT CARRY LARGE AMOUNTS OF
UNPROCESSED FILM IN CHECKED BAGGAGE. Hand carry your film and tapes,
and ask for a hand inspection at the X-ray security points. You will
find it much easier to carry the film out of the box, in clear Fuji
(and now Kodak) containers and in clear Zip-lock bags. If you don't get
a hand inspection, don't sweat it. These are low-level machines and
film-safe for a reasonable number of passes. A dozen or so passes
through the gate X-rays is almost assuredly undetectable in your
processed films.
Passports and Visas -
Passports are required for entry into South Africa and Botswana, but
visas are not necessary for visitors from North America. Of course a
return or ongoing ticket must be presented as well.
Climate
- Located in the Southern Hemisphere, our safari destinations
experience their winter in the months of April through August. This
means very little rain, with most days cloudless and warm. The average
maximum temperature during the day is 73 degrees, but it cools down
rapidly at night. In fact, nights are downright cold, at least by
tropical standards. Prepare for nights in the high 40s.
Clothing/dress
- The days are warm in Gansbaai, but it is cold water so any time spent
on the boat requires thermal protection for both above and below. Plus,
the weather is unpredictable and can get quite chilly when it rains.
Long pants, sweat shirts, Polartecs, and rain-repellant jackets should
definitely be packed. Also quality polarizing sunglasses to help spot
those elusive white sharks and prevent eye fatigue from the glare of
the sun on the water.
Health - Like Botswana. See above.
While there are no vaccines required for entry to South Africa, the CDC
advises that dengue fever, filariasis, leishmaniasis, onchocerciasis,
and trypanosomiasis (sleeping sickness) are other diseases carried by
insects that also occur in this region. Protecting yourself against
insect bites is very important and will prevent these diseases. Bring
insect repellant.
Electricity - 220 volts.
Crime
- Unfortunately certain parts of Africa are subject to crime. Our
concerns are not necessarily significant while out on safari, or in
Gansbaai or Grootbos. But the big cities definitely have areas you
don't want to be walking alone. Johannesburg is the main area of
concern, but there are rough areas in Capetown as well. I'd like to
offer the same advice that I would for any other large city almost
anywhere in the world:
- Leave your expensive jewelry at home. Don't walk the streets wearing expensive watches or rings.
-
Keep an eye on your camera gear at all times. Don't walk off and leave
your camera bag unattended while buying something or standing at an
airline ticket counter.
- Travel in small groups whenever possible. There's obviously safety in numbers.
- Traveler's checks are prudent as opposed to carrying large sums of cash.
 |
| Sea lions |
Gansbaai factoids:
-
Gansbaai is a small fishing village situated on the western side of
Cape Agulhas, the southernmost tip of Africa, on the coast between
Capetown and the famous tourist area known as the Garden Route.
- Gansbaai was named for the mountain geese that made their home in the area.
- The harbor at Gansbaai is in a sheltered bay.
- Gansbaai is nestled at the foot of the Duyenefontein Mountains and boasts a beautifully scenic coastline.
- In spring and summer, Southern right whales come into Walker Bay to calve and can be seen from the shore in Gansbaai.
- Dyer Island lies 5.2 nautical miles off the coast.
- There is a narrow channel between Geyser Rock and Dyer Island, which is home to up to 60,000 fur seals.
- Geyser Rock is named for the violent wave action generated by seas breaking on the rock.
-
The channel is about 150 meters wide by 600 meters long by 18 to 35
feet deep, and probably contains the world's highest concentration of
white sharks per gallon.
- This channel is a natural feeding ground for the great white shark, Carcharodon carcharias.
-
The area around Dyer Island has been declared a nature reserve, and
only boats permitted by the Department of Nature Conservation can enter
these waters.
- A warder,
stationed on Dyer Island, protects the birds breeding there, including
a number of endemic species such as the Oyster catcher and Swift tern.
-
Dyer Island is named for Samson Dyer, a black American who came to the
Cape in 1806 and made a living collecting guano (bird poop) from the
island.
- A code of conduct
prescribes what may and may not be done regarding vessel seaworthiness,
method of chumming, and safety procedures.
 |
| Predator II |
A day of white shark diving
- After breakfast we will be transported by bus to Kleinbaai Harbor, a
small fishing harbor just outside Gansbaai. The boat we will be using
as out primary white shark platform is called Predator II. The boat ride from the harbor to Shark Alley off Dyer Island takes about 20 minutes.
On arrival at Shark Alley the skipper typically lets the boat drift
briefly while assessing wind and currents. Then the anchor is dropped
and chumming begins. A chumbag with shark livers is used to alert the
great white that we are here to feed. It is said the great white can
detect one particle of blood in a million particles of water. However,
these sharks by now are well accustomed to knowing they will be well
fed, either by hapless seals from Geyser Rock or by the chum from white
shark boats in Shark Alley.
Once the chum slick is out, a
decoy shaped like a sea lion is typically thrown out on a line as well.
The shark cage is slipped into the water, and the wait begins.
Sometimes the sea and swell are too rough to deploy the cage. Then we
must content ourselves with topside photo-ops, although these are
terrific chances for quality photography. Andre has created an
interaction where he can literally hold the shark's snout up out of the
water. Definitely not every time and not with every shark. But you will
have seen the results of this in countless dive and natural history
magazines, including the National Geographic cover by David Doubilet.
By all means, bring your topside camera and plenty of film, for here
the above water interactions are every bit as thrilling as those
underwater. Maybe more so on most days.
 |
| Shark cage diving |
The skipper and the divemaster will determine if the seas are right for
cage diving. They use a hookah system rather than tanks, so we will be
tethered to the boat by a rope and our air hose. Note however that air
bubbles can often scare a shark away. So what about their reputation as
a fearless predator? Not in our experience anyway, and we found we had
better luck with the silence of a snorkel. There will be bait hanging
in the water near the cage, and as the shark rushes in to hit the bait,
underwater photo opportunities abound.
We chose to go white sharking in their winter. This means the seas will
potentially be rougher than the summer, but there is a reason for this.
Water clarity in South Africa is generally marginal, but winter offers
by far the best underwater visibility. July is the absolute best time
to be diving Shark Alley if you are a serious underwater photographer.
If a shark shows up at our chum slick, it may stay anywhere from a
couple minutes to several hours. It depends on the bait; the shark's
level of hunger, and also to a great extent the behavior of the divers.
A quiet entry into the water is clearly the best strategy. The shark
wrangler will then try to bring the shark close to the cage by artfully
manipulating the bait.
Water Temperature and Thermal Protection
- The water temperature is likely to be around 60 degrees. Figure on
bringing a dry suit or a 5 - 7mm wetsuit with hooded vest. You will be
a better judge of your personal tolerance to cold water, but remember
that you won't be moving much inside a cage and you will be prone to
getting chilled. When the shark is at the cage and the adrenaline is
pumping, I doubt you will notice the cold, but while waiting it's best
to be comfortable. Thick gloves may impede camera access. I found that
lighter Caribbean style dive gloves were sufficient.
The
air temperature during the day is reasonable, probably in the high 60s
to low 70s, and since it is winter and their dry season, most days
should be sunny. The water that might splash up on the deck is cold, so
an insulated/weatherproof boot or good wetsuit booty is a must. The
evenings are quite cool, so a down jacket might be advisable unless you
plan to huddle by the fire at Grootbos all night.
White
sharking is a very casual affair, so clothing that is comfortable and
functional is best. Tennis shoes, socks, long pants and sweat pants,
shorts, a few sweatshirts and t-shirts, a windbreaker (preferably water
resistant), and a hat should do fine for the boat. Really, there is
little need for anything but casual wear on the white shark
module--just be sure it is warm and comfortable.
Remember
to bring a pair of polarized sunglasses. This will help you spot the
white sharks through the glare of the sun on the sea. Using a sunglass
lanyard helps when you have to quickly bring the camera to your eye and
don't know where to put your glasses.
 |
| Stephen Frink with camera |
Photography Considerations
- Shark photography underwater is essentially wide angle photography.
I've had my best results with housed wide angle lens, although with
some sharks that come right up to the cage and an extreme wide lens
like the RS and 13mm fisheye work well. It all happens pretty quickly
when it does happen, so a viewfinder camera or something with fast,
efficient autofocus are the best options. Here are some suggested
optics:
Underwater systems:
Nikonos V - 15mm or maybe 20mm. Visibility will have to be pretty good for anything less wide.
Nikonos RS
- 13mm (occasional use in general, but with a friendly or aggressive
shark, a terrific option), or if the water is reasonably clear, a
20-35mm zoom can work.
Housed cameras -
16mm (occasional use, but good for over/unders if we are VERY lucky,
and for up-close-and-personal encounters), 18mm, 20mm, 17-35mm
(excellent choice), and 20-35mm zoom.
Digital - I used a Nikon D1X in Seacam housing with new 12-24mm zoom lens as my "go-to" system, and found the zoom range ideal.
Topside systems:
I'm only familiar with the Nikon line, but whatever camera, make sure
it has a good motor drive, fast autofocus, and preferably a zoom in
20-105mm range. You could try zooms like 17-35mm, 20-35mm, or 24-120mm.
The shark action will happen close to the boat because of the bait. But
you never know where or when the shark will break the surface. That's
why a fast ergonomic zoom is a good idea. You will have occasion for
strobe fill too, so a TTL strobe like the SB80DX is important as well.
* Remember this is an extremely exciting video subject as well.
 |
| Great white shark |
Water clarity
- The visibility is best in the wintertime, but even so I don't expect
much more than 20 feet or so (compared with just 10 feet in the
summertime). The chum we deploy may also reduce visibility and add
particulate matter making backscatter highly probably when using
strobe. That's why so many shark shots you've seen published are
available light shots. Still, I have had good luck in the past using a
strobe with 1/4 power manual setting for fast recycle and slight strobe
fill. Remember though that there is minimal room to move within the
cage, and the combination of turbidity plus space considerations makes
strobe lighting challenging.
Films - I
have used both 50 and 100 ISO transparency films for the shark
photography. The new Ektachrome 200 is good if you need a faster film
(either the pro version or the consumer Elite 200... it is apparently
the same film).
For me, my primary film of choice will be
Fujichrome Velvia for the 50 ISO, and for the 100 ISO I'll probably go
with the new Fujichrome Velvia 100. Depending on how much you shoot,
figure 10-15 rolls per shoot day.
Some days we'll be on
board shooting sharks and some days it will be too rough to go out.
Still, there will be topside photo-ops even on our non-shark days for
the gorgeous local scenery, or maybe the penguins at Stony Point. White
sharks give up their images grudgingly and I would think 60 rolls of
film is more than enough for this adventure.
A note on patience required
- There will undoubtedly be considerable down time while we wait for
sharks to show up. And some days we won't be able to go out at all.
Bring some good books and a high degree of patience. When the sharks
happen it is an unbelievable rush. While on the boat we'll, read books,
fiddle with cameras, or watch the chumming procedures. No doubt Andre
will have some very interesting white shark tales to tell. To a great
extent, wait for the sharks to do their thing at their own pace. I'm
not a fisherman, but this adventure is much like what I assume a
fishing trip must be like. Lots of stealth and planning. Years of
experience, good equipment, good reflexes, a good knowledge of
photographic principles, and of course a bit of luck. When all these
things come together, white shark images happen. Photo Gallery
Botswana Safari and Great White Sharks of South Africa
July 7 - 12, 2003 (Botswana)
July 13 - 20, 2003 (White Sharks)
Photography by StephenFrink
|
5/29/2008 10:08:11 AM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00) 
|
|
Indonesia aboard North Sulawesi Aggressor and at Kungkungan Bay Resort
Posted by Scuba Staff
Dates: September 27 - October 7, 2006
Indonesia is widely regarding as among the world's richest environments
for marine biodiversity. Certainly, my past trips to Indonesia have
been extraordinarily productive (see http://www.stephenfrink.com/sf-reports/200504wakatobi/ and http://www.stephenfrink.com/sf-reports/indonesia2002/
as two examples). Yet, there is one region of Indonesia that critter
enthusiasts have long considered marquee value -- the Lembeh Straits.
Why Lembeh, when the reality is that at first glance it is a vast
expanse of dark volcanic sand, dotted with detritus and trash and
washed by water of marginal clarity? Oddly, enough, it is also home to
wild variety of bizarre and colorful muck inhabitants that are simply
not found elsewhere.
As cool as these kinds of creatures
might be, I've always felt that a week of this kind of diving might be
a bit much, for my wide-angle imperative anyway. So, when the Aggressor
Fleet began operating a new live-aboard in the region in October 2005
combining the muck diving from Lembeh with the wider underwater vistas
presented by cruising the islands off the north end of Sulawesi, I knew
it was my kind of place.
Kungkungan Bay Resort
The North Sulawesi Aggressor operates an itinerary between
Manado and Kungkungan Bay Resort (KBR), steaming either clockwise or
anti-clockwise on alternate weeks around the north tip of the island.
This makes an add-on at the resort very easy to accomplish, especially
since the drive between the airport in Manado and KBR is only about 1
1/2 hours. Knowing how fatiguing long international travel can be, we
opted to arrive 3 days before our Aggressor departure and book into KBR
to get rid of a little jet-lag and to sample the best of Lembeh muck
diving with the resort that put it on the map.
KBR operates kind of like a 17-room live-aboard with an emphasis
entirely on diving the Lembeh Strait, the fairly narrow body of water
separating the west coast of North Sulawesi and Lembeh Island. To that
end, they have a wonderfully spacious camera room located near the
dock, and here UW photographers can spread out for housing maintenance
in a well ventilated and perhaps more importantly, well lighted
workspace. They have either 110 or 220-volt charging stations, and a
concrete floor with drains inviting access to equipment even when
slightly wet.
The "mother-ship" consists of various tasteful accommodations made from
local hardwoods, including beachfront bungalows and suites. There is a
main house with restaurant and bar, as well as reference library and
computer station. The beach is black-sand, the property beautifully
landscaped with tropical foliage, and there is a fresh-water swimming
pool. Massages ($12) are a big hit, and for those wishing to stay in
touch, the resort is more-or-less wifi enabled. However the
Manado-based server was down much of the time we were there, and when
it did work it was rather slow. But given the remote location, to have
Internet access at all is extraordinary. Plus, if it was too easy to do
e-mail and stay in touch with work; it would have interfered with a
very busy (and far more pleasurable) schedule of diving, downloading,
and processing images. Which, after all, is why we were there.
The heart of the operation is the diving infrastructure; the Nitrox
compressor, the twin-outboard dive skiffs, and most significantly, the
dive guides. Never having dived this kind of terrain before, I assumed
local knowledge was a good thing, but until I experienced the KBR style
of muck diving, I did not really appreciate how absolutely beneficial
these guides can be in terms of delivering the shot. Not only do they
know the environment intimately, diving it every day like they do, and
not only do they have apparently superhuman visual acuity to see the
small things they are able to point out; but they have acquired
practical knowledge about how and where these creatures live. This
allows them to take their little metal rods and probe around in the
sand until a wonderpuss octopus begins roaming before our macro ports,
or to prolong an encounter with a mantis shrimp before it darts back
into its hole. The resort assigns one guide to no more than four
divers, and it is with a sense of pride that they deliver one after
another rare and wonderful creature.
About the diving
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Steve Coverdale, who with wife Miranda manages the resort, recommended
we put our wide-angle lenses away while in residence; and with 20 to
40-foot visibility the norm I had to agree. Actually, some of the dive
sites do have nice coral gardens, and if I were going to be at KBR for
a week I'd make a point to cover them with a wide lens, but with the
Aggressor trip coming up in 3 days, I figured I should concentrate on
the small stuff that Lembeh is famous for. In fact, most of what I shot
was with the 100-mm macro on my full-frame Canon EOS1DSMKII, but many
of our other guests were shooting cameras like Nikon D2X and D200 with
a 1.5 correction factor from their digital sensor, and they found their
60mm Micro-Nikkor (effectively a 90mm macro lens) was their go-to
optic. The addition of an external diopter (I used a Seacam Wet Two)
was a nice option when a very small creature like a pygmy seahorse was
revealed.
A note on muck diving - www.aggressor.com has a nicely informative
narrative on the art and science of muck diving, copied below:
The somewhat ambiguous & misleading term "muck diving" was coined
in the North Sulawesi area of Indonesia. In all actuality "muck diving"
is predominantly done on crushed coral & volcanic slopes in the
20-80 foot depth range.
The word "muck" conjures up, to
uneducated divers, silt out conditions & a muddy substrate. This is
typically not the case in North Sulawesi. The average visibility in the
Lembeh Strait is 30' - 60' on good days & 20' - 40' on bad days.
The poor visibility is due to the very thing that makes the strait the
diving wonder that it is...tidal exchange and incoming & outgoing
currents.
This extremely rich "nutritional environment" is
precisely why the area supports such a diverse endemic species such as
the hairy frog fish, juvenile dwarf pigmy sea horses, star gazers,
cockatoo flounder, ghost pipefish, mimic octopus, blue ring octopus
& flamboyant cuttlefish.
As noted above, the currents
& tides are very active in the Lembeh Strait & tend to "funnel"
in and out of the straits. This tidal action does not create any type
of drift diving situation, but does deposit some litter & debris in
the strait. To the ecologically minded diver, this debris (i.e., cans,
buckets, bottles) can initially be somewhat disconcerting, however;
there is a very positive side to this & one that actually works in
symbiosis with the u/w environment.
The previously mentioned
bottom terrain of slopes and crushed coral is totally absent of safe
habitat for the animals simply due to the movement of the water in the
strait. Consequently, the incoming debris creates underwater homes for
the resident dwellers in the Lembeh Strait. The local dive guides will
be able to educate & inform divers further on this.
Divers not familiar with "muck diving" conditions do need to observe & be aware of the following:
- Only gloves with the fingertips removed are allowed on dives.
- Be
constantly aware of touching or sitting on the reef or "muck" as there
are highly camouflaged animals everywhere. You will learn to see these
animals as you spend more time in the area.
- Do your part as a conscientious diver on the "muck" dives to help maintain the limited visibility.
- Don't move or disturb items on the bottom.
- Be very aware of over finning (use slow steady & short fin movements to prevent stirring up the sandy bottom).
- Always remain 2-3 feet above the "muck" & have total control of
gauges & cameras that can stir up the bottom & disturb these
delicate animals.
- As animal are
discovered, be courteous to all divers in the group. These animals are
easy to photograph, as a rule, & will remain in the open as long as
necessary.
A note on the local dive guides --- The local dive guides are highly
trained to spot animals in the "muck" that would absolutely go
unnoticed by the untrained eye. The guides use, at times, a probe to
move items on the bottom and gently prod animals to move so they can be
seen. This is something we ask that you do not do, and that you leave
it to the local guides. Water Temperature
When we visited there was a significant difference in the water
temperature between the Lembeh side of the island, where the water was
78 degrees, and the Manado side where we had 84-degree water. I assume
this temperature discrepancy is not necessarily as extreme year-round,
but clearly different currents affect either side of the island, no
doubt also explaining the vast differences in the underwater
environments. I found that layering wetsuits, a 3mm Henderson Instadry
wetsuit coupled with a 3/5 hooded vest worked really well for me under
these conditions.
The House Reef
I was too jet-lagged and exhausted to make the first morning's
boat dive. So, with a dive buddy and a guide (they don't let anyone
dive without a buddy under any circumstance) I did the simple shore
entry by the dock and dived a part of the house reef, this time exiting
stage right. Immediately at the end of the pier was a cluster of
banggai cardinalfish, (Pterapogon kaudemi) floating just above an
anemone inhabited by orange clownfish. To see anything other than an
anemonefish so near the tentacles of the anemone was surprising, but I
found this to be common for this species in Lembeh. They also are found
floating above plate corals that are visually very similar to anemones
(I lost a bet on a bottle of wine to one of my friends when I claimed
the environment in the photo was anemone and he correctly opined it was
plate coral). Later in the week I saw them among the spines of a sea
urchin, so I guess hanging out in sharp and toxic environments suits
their lifestyle.
This was a productive dive for various species of pufferfish and
pipefish. The backgrounds were more coral structure than I would find
at some of the other predominantly black sand locales later in the
week, so this was a great way to start the KBR adventure. Depth range
was 10 to 40 feet for the areas I found most interesting. Later in the
week I dived the house reef, stage left, and found quite a difference
in terrain and critter. Staff told me that the House Reef is actually
rarely dived by KBR guests, as they tend to board the dive boats for
the 3 to 15-minute ride to the other presumably more exotic nearby
sites. But the whole of that bay is a protected marine environment, and
is accessible only to KBR guests. I found it both convenient and
productive.
The map of the dive sites posted by the dock
identifies 30 different sites. Truthfully, I was too debilitated by
jet-lag those first few days to pay much attention to the name of the
sites we dived, trusting that the dive staff knew far more about what
was good and where than I did. Instead, I paid attention to the
briefing so I could decide what critters to target. In terms of lenses,
I found I could essentially choose between my 50mm macro or my 100mm
macro, for almost all the critters described were small. No surprise
really, for each night a flotilla of several hundred fishing boats work
the waters of the strait, assuring anything larger than the mesh of a
gill net is unlikely to survive outside the protected zone at KBR's
personal bay. Lembeh is about the small stuff, undeniably.
I
was only at KBR three days, and will be the first to admit I normally
tend not to obsess over macro subjects. In fact, I can go six months
without slipping my 100mm macro lens on my underwater camera, yet this
trip it was almost constantly affixed. On the other hand Ned and Anna
Deloach, of the "Reef Fish" ID books fame, will spend 2 months in
Lembeh this year because they find such a wealth of unusual and rarely
documented marine life. For the dedicated macro shooters of the world,
this is a Mecca of obligatory pilgrimage.
Taken in this
context, consider my vision of these waters the "Cliff's Notes"
version, concentrating on the iconic and obvious rather than rare and
sublime. Which is not to say I didn't shoot some pretty rare stuff, but
I attribute that more to the talent of the dive guide, the wealth of
the environment, and a little bit of luck. Among the creatures
significant to me in the short time I was there:
Pinnate spadefish - Amazing for bizarre and beautiful shape, accented by orange trim along the black body
Anemonefish -
The species I found most predominant were orange, skunk, pink,
orange-finned, Clark's, spinecheek, false clown, and tomato anemonefish
Anthias - Many species, although not in Fiji or Maldives profusion
Barramundi - The juvenile of this species is particularly interesting
Hawkfish - Many species including the photogenic longnose, dwarf, and freckled
Sweetlips - Fairly common, but skittish. I figure any fish that fits easily into a frying pan should be cautious here.
Wrasse - Too many species to mention
Cardinalfish - I found the banggai to be the most interesting, but there must have been more than a dozen species of cardinalfish
Mandarinfish -
There is a pretty nice mandarinfish dive scheduled daily for 5:00 PM.
Not a large substrate actually, and a little deeper than some at about
50 feet. Our group had been on mandarinfish dives elsewhere in the
world and was not overly impressed with this one, but if you're there
and you need a mandarinfish opportunity, this can deliver.
Lizardfish - Every dive
Shrimpgoby - Exceedingly common, but nonetheless photographically challenging
Dragonet - Many species
Gobies and Blennies - Diverse and abundant
Frogfish and Scorpionfish - Take the whole
"Odd-shaped bottom dwellers" chapter out of the Reef Fish ID book for
the tropical Pacific and you've described the population of the sand
slopes off Lembeh. I found that out pretty painfully while shooting a
flamboyant cuttlefish on my first day. Concentrating on vertical
compositions my left elbow was bouncing along the sand as a kind of
monopod when I felt a sharp sting through my wetsuit. Looking down I
saw a rather indignant devil scorpionfish roused from his ambush buried
in the sand and having stung me in response. I put my elbow in hot
water to break down the venom as soon as we got back to the dock, so
the effects were rather minimal. But it does point out just how many
small and camouflaged critters occupy what is at first glance a
submarine desert. Of the numerous species of frogfish, the hairy
variation seemed to cause the most excitement among the other divers;
and while there were many species of scorpionfish, the weedy (Rhinopias
frondosa) justified dedicated dives in pursuit.
Stargazer - Fairly common on many of the night dives to the sandy slope
Cowfish and puffer - Common
Lionfish - Common (but often on very nice backgrounds)
Pipefish and seahorse - The pygmy seahorses are guaranteed at several sites, and pipefish such as the ornate ghost are favorites of the dive guides
Eels - The ribbon eel is found frequently, male/female/juvenile
Shark -
Not too likely, although some hammerheads are occasionally seen at a
distance. I saw one reef shark the whole week, and he was way too far
away for a photo.
Rays - Mostly blue-spotted stingray
Squid, cuttlefish, and octopus -
Lembeh is very good for cephalopod sighting. The mimic octopus and
wonderpuss are very special encounters, and highly prized photo
opportunities. Cuttlefish are pretty common, but the smaller flamboyant
cuttlefish has been kind of rare lately and when I came home with a
nice series the dive guide seemed to be very proud to have delivered.
I'd never shot either the flamboyant or the wonderpuss before, so these
were prized additions to my critter portfolio.
A final note on KBR
I was really very impressed with the entire operation. They were very
safety conscious, and kept the resort immaculately maintained. Some
small issues were beyond their control, like the Internet server going
down in Manado, but that which they could affect seemed to operate
flawlessly. Or, at least if there were flaws, they kept them hidden
from us. This is a very remote locale after all, but despite the
considerable challenges they must face it is a terrific diver's resort.
The Coverdales get a tip of the hat from our group for hospitality and
professionalism, and the dive staff was truly amazing in terms of
delivering the cryptic creatures of Lembeh. I almost didn't take the
few extra days at KBR, figuring I would get enough to the macro stuff
on the Aggressor, but now having done it I can't imagine any serious
dive photographer would travel this far and not invest some time in a
land based resort in Lembeh. The guides do these sites every day of
their lives, and the benchmark of their performance (and level of
gratuity) is the virtual invisibility of the creatures they are able to
point out to their guests.
North Sulawesi Aggressor
We did the morning dives at KBR and then left for the several
hour drive to Manado and the North Sulawesi Aggressor in the late
afternoon. We hit rush hour in Manado, so the trip took longer than it
would have had to, but KBR and the Aggressor work very closely together
to make sure all guests' needs are met and comfort assured. That meant
all our bags were safely transported, and they even provided bins for
our already-assembled cameras so we did not have to break down our
housings and repack. Even though they are totally separate businesses,
the Aggressor Fleet and KBR are clearly symbiotic. I don't know which
is the host anemone and which is the clownfish, but they each benefit
from their close collaboration.
The vessel is a 110-foot dive yacht, most recently incarnated as the
Truk Aggressor, and only operating as the North Sulawesi Aggressor
since October 2005. With 7 double staterooms and a quad cabin, the
maximum accommodation is 18 guests.
As we pulled into Manado
I couldn't help be recall the last time I visited. It was September of
2001 and I had been invited to be a photo pro with the very first
Digital Shootout by friends Dan Baldocci of Light and Motion and
Berkley White of Backscatter. Of course, back then I really knew
nothing about digital photography and the only thing I knew how to do
on a computer was word processing. But, along with about 30 others I
was there to learn something about this new thing called "digital
photography". After all, maybe there was something to it, and if so I
should possibly pay attention. I figured, what the heck, it might come
in handy somewhere down the road.
Anyway, we got as far as
Singapore and when we deplaned for the Manado connection there was a
camera crew from the local news affiliate waiting to greet us.
Bleary-eyed and disheveled from 16 hours in the air I had little
patience for what I assumed to be their "Candid Camera" clone when they
asked me what I, as an American, thought about the terrorists who flew
jet airplanes into the World Trade Towers in New York.
We spent the week after 9/11 in Manado at a land-based dive resort
learning about how to process and store digital images from Berkley,
Dan, and James Watt. At night we'd watch the news back home, and by day
we'd dive the Bunaken Marine Park. (Click here
for a review of that week.) Dan gave me an Olympus 3040 in a Tetra
housing to try, and while my serious images were shot that week with my
trusty Nikonos RS, the immediacy of review on the digital camera was
pretty impressive. In fact, I bought a Nikon D1X and Seacam housing
right after I got home, and we all know how digital imaging has swept
all forms of photography in those few short years. As for being in an
essentially Muslim country like Indonesia as we were first beginning to
learn that there were Islamic terrorists out to get Americans, we took
comfort in knowing North Sulawesi is predominantly Christian, and quite
peaceful. Gratefully, that's still the case and never did we have a
moment's concern about geopolitical issues while here.
Now,
five years later, we were back to Manado to dive, far more digitally
enabled than that first trip. There were even two of our guests along
this time whom I'd first met during that traumatic time together over
9/11, Dana Weber and Ann Bennett. They too were now shooting
top-of-the-line digital systems ... Canon EOS1DSMKII and Nikon D2X in
Seacam housings. All three of us had significantly evolved from our
first digital experience with the Light and Motion Tetra housing for an
Olympus 3040.
As would be expected of an Aggressor boat
anywhere in the world, the North Sulawesi Aggressor is a lovely dive
yacht crewed by experienced dive professionals. Captain Niall gave us a
mercifully short briefing on the night of arrival, for while many of us
had been on location long enough to acclimate, two of your guests had
arrived just that afternoon and been transferred directly from Manado
airport. Cabins were assigned, food served, and we retired
semi-comatose to our cozy bunks.
Day One aboard Aggressor - Fukui, Mount Satu, Lekuau 2
The dive briefing and other important need-to-know information was
disseminated that first morning, all cameras assembled, and soon we
were ready for our first dive in the Bunaken Marine Park. Actually, I
remembered Fukui from diving it in 2001, but visibility was much better
according to my recollection.. Water clarity is variable anywhere,
anytime; but being so close to Manado (it was a city of a million
people back in 2001, and I figure the city must have grown
significantly since then) the nutrients and debris of civilization had
to affect the water. The coral was still in great shape, but visibility
only 45 - 50 feet. That first dive was kind of disappointing, except
for 5 in-a-row giant tridacna clams, pristine staghorn corals in the
shallows, and a few nice clownfish set-ups. But, the checkout dive on
most live-aboards is often marginal so I remained hopeful.
Unfortunately, the other two dives along Bunaken Marine Park that day,
Mount Satu and Lekuau 2, reinforced my perception of water clarity
issues. Also, there were bottles and plastic bags floating along the
surface (and occasionally underwater) that were constant reminders of
our proximity to a very large city. The biggest issue was that the
marine life was pretty skittish here, probably owing to considerable
fishing pressure. We did manage a very nice over/under series with a
local outrigger boat that came to sell trinkets to the Aggressor
guests, and I got lucky with a few pretty cooperative fish. Actually,
Lekuau 2 was pretty nice, as a vertical wall nicely decorated with
encrusting sponge, black coral, and large tube sponge along the
precipice. With decent visibility, this could have been a very nice
wide-angle opportunity, especially with the nice anthias concentrations
along the shallows.
I fear divers the first day out of Manado
will be a little concerned that the diving would not justify a trip
this far. Trust me, or rather trust Aggressor Fleet, the diving gets
much better after that first day as the itinerary progresses away from
the metropolitan area. Water clarity improves along the north end of
the island (although we never had really stellar visibility in the 80
to 100 foot range, 30 to 50 being more the norm) and the reefs and reef
dwellers become far more fascinating and accessible.
Day 2 - Goldfish Bowl, Batu Mandi
The Aggressor formula is four dives during the day, and as the
anchorage permits, the option of a night dive. For the 7:30 dive (cold
breakfast of fruits and cereals before the first dive, hot breakfast
after) we arrived at a site they call Goldfish Bowl, although I never
quite figured out how it got the name. I figured there'd be large
clouds of anthias, but instead the highlight of this site is acres of
perfectly intact staghorn coral with myriad clownfish and anemone
clusters tucked within. Once beyond the staghorn zone there were lots
of other fascinating subjects ... cuttlefish, blue ribbon eels, more
clownfish and anemone clusters (often with the mantle rolled up making
for a more interesting composition). There was one especially
cooperative lionfish here that allowed me to play with various shutter
speeds on an upward angle as he sat along the side of a sponge. I
figured these shots would make a good teaching tool later in terms of
how foreground is determined by strobe power and strobe to subject
distance, while background more depends on shutter speed to control
ambient light.
The afternoon dives at Batu Mandi are very significant critter dives.
Here is where they often (maybe 50% of the time) see blue-ring octopus,
but I guess next week's guests will have a slam-dunk blue-ring
experience on their four dives, because on our four dives we got
blue-ring skunked.
The typical dive profile is to enter the
water to the left of a large rock structure that just barely sticks out
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